Retinoids!

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What is the Philadelphia Medspa's Beauty "Buzzword" of the month?? Retinoid!

Well… for us skin care professionals and laser techs here at The Philadelphia Medspa, right now, it's all about the right products coupled with the right regimen and maintenance routine. We have been honing our product and topical knowledge, and researching what really seems to work best for many of our clients with different concerns and skin types. Let's have a discussion about one such product I lovingly refer to as, "a little help in a tube". So, let's talk retinoids!

Retinoids have been around for quite a while already (the 70's to be more accurate), but we feel that their "renewal" or resurgence into not only acne-prone or aging clients' daily or weekly regimens, as they are most commonly prescribed for but also as a preventative for younger, non-problematic skin as well. Retinoids are a derivative of Vitamin A, and can be found in skin care products under several names, and in several forms such as Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Tretinoin , Isotretinoin (Accutaneâ), or Renovaâ, Retin-Aâ (which is just really a Retinol brand name). Most come in either cream or gel form, some both.

What's the difference? What do they do you ask??

Retinoids are available in different strengths, forms (cream or gels), and many different brand names. Retinol in milder forms, and in most over the counter product ingredient lists, is usually listed as Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, even Retinaldehyde. These are much more mild forms of a Retinoid and don't require a doctor's prescription. It's when the Retinoid becomes stronger in formulation that you would need to purchase the product from a dermatologist, medspa or another facility that is licensed to sell these "medical-grade" strengths and formulations. Many of these stronger products are called, or fall under the names, Adapalene, Tretinioin, Isotretinoin, Tazarotene, and Accutaneâ to name a few.

We carry one of my favorite Tretinoin retinol products by OBAGI Medical in all three strengths, 0.025%. 0.05%, and 0.1%. Its frankly one of our top two skincare products, along with a medical-grade skin lightener (also fabulous, but will discuss another time…).

Okay, now that you are more familiar with some of their more common names, what do they do exactly, you ask?

For starters, a retinoid is usually used to target acne or anti-aging. It works by exfoliating the skin with constant cell turnover. It slows down the breakdown of collagen, thickens the skin, and decreases dark spots. The strength usually depends on the type of retinoid used. The skin is only able to process a retinoid more directly when it is in retinoic acid form, so by using a weaker type of retinoid such as the palmitate, retinol, or retinaldehyde, the skin doesn't readily accept the retinoid and it becomes less effective. When the retinoid is in a weaker state, (retinyl palmitate, retinol, or retinaldehyde) it takes several steps, or breakdowns for the retinoid to become retinoic acid, therefore, with each breakdown or step, the retinoid becomes weaker, oxidizes more, and becomes slightly less effective. Those stronger, strictly retinoic acid forms, would be your Tretinoin, isotretinoin, Adapalene, Tazarotene. Most of these formulations of retinoic acid are natural retinoids, while others are synthetic.

Are there side effects to Retinoids? There can be, yes…but what is beauty without a tiny bit of sacrifice I always say…

But seriously, the most common side effects from retinoids are irritation, peeling, dry skin, flaking, redness, flushing and an itchy feeling. Will everyone experience these effects? Should this stop you from exploring the benefits of retinoids? NO.

The formulations or different products available may just take a bit of trial and error on your part to see what works for you or what doesn't.

How long does it take to see results? Normally it takes anywhere from 10-12 weeks to six months in some cases.

So my advice to retinol beginners: Start slowly, work your way up to the strongest formula your skin to handle, and BE PATIENT. There may be a small bit of irritation, redness, or flaking in the beginning phase, but give your skin some time. You may just need to scale down the amount of product you are using for every application, (a pea-size is best), don't use too often (start with 2 nights a week and work up to 7), or you can try a buffer, by adding a bit of moisturizer to your application.

Side note: Since Retinoids make skin more sensitive to the sun and its rays, ALWAYS use a good broad-spectrum sun BLOCK in your daily routine. EVERY DAY, no matter what!

Here is a great before/after pic..

This lovely lady was one of our clients who came to us wanting to change the overall look, feel and brightness of her skin. Now although she really didn't have many wrinkles to speak of, her regimen of adding better skin care products along with a mid-strength Tretinoin cream and a few corrective facials, really turned her skin around!

Final thoughts:

Retinoids are a GREAT product and can really be useful in the anti-aging, preventative, and acne-fighting categories.

But are they right for everyone?

No… but nothing is just right for everyone… Some skin types may just be too sensitive to tolerate even the mildest strength, but armed with the knowledge of what a retinoid is, how they work, and the best way to use them…this magical little product could become your #1 beauty must-have!

Give us a call with any questions, if you would like to order any of our OBAGI Medical products, or set up an appointment for a FREE consultation…

Peace, Love, and Healthy Skin,

The Philadelphia Medspa

834 South Street, Philadelphia, PA 19147

contact@thelasertechs.com